Thursday, August 06, 2009
This simple, no-frills donut shop on Nostrand and Church was a great surprise this morning. The place is a total throwback, from the sign (as far as I know, nothing established since 1970 has been called a "Luncheonette") to the teal sine-wave linoleum counters and matching chrome-and-cushion bar stools to the snappy, amiable lady in a white apron and matching cap who served me my donuts. When I asked how long they'd been around, she quipped "Longer than you've been alive, that's for sure," and then cackled for a moment before smiling sympathetically. "My husband's owned it for 34 years, and it was here before that . . . maybe 50 years?"
The donuts are 80 cents a pop, and the rest of the menu, which I didn't try, is similarly diner-esque and frugal: breakfast plates for $3.50, etc. The donuts themselves were fantastic--I ordered a custard creme, which lacked the gooey heaviness of most mass-produced donut fillings and tasted more like actual cream, and a "honey dip," which looked like your standard glazed donut but actual tasted like honey, instead of crusted corn syrup.
I could picture this place being absolutely swamped in another neighborhood, but it seems to be off the radar so far: a google search turned up only some minor health-code violations (nothing that made me worry about my donuts) and a solitary positive review from a Californian passing through. It's easy enough off the train (right at the Church stop on the 2-5 line), so go check them out the next time you're craving a homemade donut and some old-timey atmosphere.